Sliding glass roof: sequence of steps.

1.1 Have drilling tools ready: cordless drill or screwdriver, 5 mm and 3.5 mm drill bits, flat countersink.

1.2 For measuring: spirit level, tape measure or folding rule, and a pencil.

1.3 For the wings: caulking gun with adhesive, utility knife or scissors, and pliers.

1.4 Also: hacksaw, hammer, construction props, shovel, step ladder or rolling scaffold, and cleaning supplies.

1.5 Put on protective clothing: work gloves, safety shoes, work trousers.

1.6 Procure fixings for the wall and substructure yourself and use stainless steel only.

Caution: The fixing material is not part of the kit. Ask your specialist dealer what suits your wall.

1.7 Tighten all screws carefully to about 1.0 Nm.

Caution: You are screwing into aluminium. It is soft, and screws can easily spin through.

2.1 Unpack the kit carefully.

2.2 Compare all parts with the material overview: profiles, brushes, stops, angles, screws, operating pole, seal, trims.

2.3 Check the parts for damage. If anything is missing or damaged, report it to us immediately.

Caution: Take photos of damaged packaging and parts.

3.1 The sliding roof is available up to 600 cm wide and 350 cm deep, only on the wall with 8 degrees pitch and without roof overhang.

3.2 Plan the posts: up to 4 m roof width 2 posts, from 4 m 3 posts. Greater widths need a beam.

3.3 Glass width of the first row: (roof width − 60 mm) ÷ number of bays − 22 mm. Example: (4000 − 60) ÷ 5 − 22 = 766 mm.

3.4 Glass width of rows 2 to 4: width of the first row − 15 mm. Example: 766 − 15 = 751 mm.

3.5 Glass length for all panes: (roof depth − 50 mm) ÷ 4 + 100 mm overlap. Example: 862 mm + 100 mm = 962 mm.

3.6 Order in the example: 5 panes 766 × 962 mm and 15 panes 751 × 962 mm, all with a polished edge on the face side.

Caution: The fixed panes are wider than the movable sliding panes.

3.7 Between the supports there are always 4 panes, no matter how deep the roof is. The panes of the first row at the wall profile are fixed.

4.1 Start with the glass sliding wings so the assembly adhesive can dry while the rails are installed. Lay the pane on the trestles.

Tip: Recommendation: prepare the wings in the workshop beforehand. That saves time on site.

4.2 Lay out the side profiles (sliding profile) and the brush profile. The brush profile goes on the edge facing the wall profile.

4.3 Pull the black 8.5 mm brush into the brush profile. Pinch the end together with pliers so the brush is fixed.

4.4 Pull the grey brushes into the side profiles and fix them.

4.5 Insert the plastic hat profiles. Bend in the corners of the profile so that it sits firmly.

Caution: The hat profiles go into the aluminium profile with difficulty. If they shift, fix them with a little assembly adhesive.

4.6 Insert the plastic sliders.

4.7 Apply a thin layer of assembly adhesive into the side profiles.

Caution: Too much assembly adhesive prolongs the drying time.

4.8 Fit the first side profile around the glass and press it on firmly.

Caution: Note the polished edge and the face side (visible edge).

4.9 Fit the second side profile in the same way.

4.10 Apply a thin layer of assembly adhesive into the brush profile and press it firmly onto the edge facing the wall profile.

Caution: Only the sliding wing gets a brush profile. The fixed glass wing has none.

4.11 Check that the bonded profiles sit firmly on the pane. Always re-measure that the width b is the same at the top and bottom.

4.12 Prepare the fixed glass wing in the same way: only the two side profiles, without brush profile.

4.13 Let the bonded elements dry unloaded for 2 to 3 hours. Then they can be handled but are not yet fully load-bearing.

Caution: Protection against glass damage: temporarily lay wooden battens on the floor.

5.1 Hold the wall profile against the wall at the planned height and align it with the spirit level.

5.2 Fasten the wall profile to the wall with the screws.

5.3 Mill the rail profile to 8 degrees (milled angle).

5.4 For rail lengths over 3000 mm, make an additional fixing hole in the middle.

5.5 Place the rails on the gutter. The number depends on the dimensions of the sliding roof; in the example there are 6.

5.6 Fasten the rails to the gutter with screws.

5.7 Fasten the rails to the wall profile with screws.

6.1 Place the T-profiles on the rails, on the wall side.

6.2 Insert the fixed glass wings. They are not moved any more.

Caution: Work in pairs only. Never carry glass alone.

6.3 Put the round profiles on.

6.4 Put the angles on and fasten them with the screws.

7.1 Slide the glass bays into the rails: first the first movable pane in each bay.

Caution: Work in pairs only. Never carry glass alone.

7.2 Then slide the second pane underneath.

7.3 Slide the third pane underneath.

7.4 Fit the rubber end stops with screws, 80 mm from the glass.

7.5 Fit stop brackets and round strips. The rafter covers sit at the ends of the rails.

7.6 Screw the round profile covers to the rails with screws.

8.1 Pull the rubber seal into the wall profile.

8.2 Fit the trims for the wall profile with screws.

8.3 Fit the trims for the gutter with screws.

8.4 An operating pole is included: the sliding roof is moved by hand, it is not electric.

8.5 Done. Clean every six months, and the roof will last longer.

Caution: Electrical installations (if present) only by licensed installers.