Solar patio roof: sequence of steps.

1.1 Lay out power tools: cordless screwdriver, hammer drill, mitre saw.

1.2 Measuring and drilling: spirit level, tape measure, metal and masonry drill bits, driver bits, screwdriver.

1.3 Have hole saws ready: 68 and 76 mm.

Caution: The hole saws are for the gutter, leaf guards and downpipe.

1.4 Get the aids: trestles, ladder, props, hammer, hacksaw, utility knife, cartridge gun.

1.5 Put on protective clothing: work gloves, safety shoes, work trousers.

1.6 Make sure water and power connections are nearby. Plan for a licensed electrician to connect the modules.

Caution: Only a licensed installer may make the electrical connection of the solar modules.

1.7 Buy screws and wall plugs for your house wall and the floor at a DIY store.

Caution: This fixing is not part of the kit. Get advice on your wall type.

2.1 Take the kit and solar modules out of the packaging carefully and properly.

Caution: The modules are heavy: 72.5 kg at 295 cm length, 104.2 kg at 345 cm. Never carry glass alone.

2.2 Compare all parts with the parts overview and your order.

2.3 Check the modules: 295 × 75 cm with 365 Wp or 345 × 75 cm with 429 Wp. Compare both with your order.

2.4 Check for visible defects and transport damage, including connection cables and plugs.

Caution: If something is missing or damaged: report it to us immediately.

2.5 Check the PV solar cable: it needs the length roof width plus 1 m. Plus a 1 m cable as an extension for the open end.

2.6 Collect the film and packaging and dispose of them correctly.

Caution: Please do not leave the film lying around: dispose of it responsibly.

3.1 Frame as for the mono-pitch roof: wall profile, gutter, rafters, posts, wall trim.

3.2 Roof covering: glass-glass solar modules, 75 cm wide and 295 or 345 cm long, one module per bay.

3.3 This is how a module is built: three panes of glass, with the solar cells in silicone and a laminating film in between.

3.4 Each module has a connection cable with plug and socket (MC4).

4.1 Remember: the roof falls 14 cm per metre (8 degrees).

Caution: The slope always runs from the wall to the gutter.

4.2 Fix the height at the gutter. Example: 200 cm.

4.3 Set the wall profile higher: 3 m depth × 14 cm = 42 cm more.

4.4 Result: bottom edge of the wall profile at 242 cm.

4.5 Choose the module: the module length is the roof depth minus 50 mm. At 300 cm depth use the 295 cm module, at 350 cm the 345 cm module.

Caution: At 350 cm depth, rafter inserts must be fitted. At 300 cm it works without.

4.6 Calculate the rafter spacing: module width 750 mm + 22 mm = 772 mm centre to centre of rafters.

4.7 Calculate the roof width: number of modules × 772 mm + 60 mm. Example: 5 × 772 + 60 = 3920 mm.

Tip: Fixed roof widths for 4 to 9 modules: 315, 392, 470, 547, 625 and 700 cm.

4.8 Plan the posts: from 470 cm roof width a third post is added. The example with 392 cm needs 2 posts.

4.9 Calculate the solar cable: roof width plus 1 m.

5.1 Cut the rubber strip to twice the rafter length plus 10 cm.

Caution: The rubber retracts by a few centimetres after insertion. That is why you cut it longer.

5.2 Slide the rubber strip into the rafter.

5.3 Cut off the protruding rubber at the end.

5.4 Cut rubber strips for the gutter and wall trim (plus 10 cm) and slide them in.

5.5 Check the thickness: for solar modules made of glass use 4 mm rubber.

Caution: Do not use the thinner 2 mm rubber intended for polycarbonate.

6.1 Lay the wall profile on two trestles.

6.2 Pre-drill the plug holes: first hole at 10 cm, then every 50 cm.

6.3 Hold the wall profile at the calculated height and align it level with the spirit level.

Caution: Bottom edge at 242 cm in the example. Use your own height from chapter 4.

6.4 Mark the drill holes on the wall with a pencil.

6.5 Drill the fixing holes in the wall.

6.6 Seal the wall profile against the wall with a thick bead of silicone. Sealing tape is also recommended.

Caution: The bead must run continuously all round. This evens out irregularities in the wall.

6.7 Screw the wall profile on with the hammer-in plugs.

6.8 Fill the joint between wall and wall profile with silicone, smooth it and seal it.

Caution: Do not skimp on silicone: the joint must be completely sealed.

7.1 Lay the gutter on the trestles.

7.2 Drill the hole for the water outlet: hole saw 68 mm, 55 mm from the edge and from below. At both ends.

Caution: With a roof overhang, this dimension is not used: the hole is then drilled in the centre.

7.3 Detach the leaf guard and shorten it by 5 mm.

Caution: With a roof overhang, the leaf guard is not shortened.

7.4 Inject silicone into the gutter ends.

7.5 Insert the leaf guard into the gutter.

7.6 Fix both end caps with screws 4.2 × 19 mm. Do not yet screw the point marked X.

Caution: The fourth screw only goes in at the very end (chapter 16).

7.7 Seal the end caps with silicone.

7.8 Screw on the first stop angle: curve facing up, 30 mm from the gutter edge to the centre of the hole.

7.9 Calculate the spacing: module width + 22 mm = 772 mm centre to centre. This equals (roof width − 60 mm) ÷ bays: (3920 − 60) ÷ 5 = 772 mm.

Caution: The same calculation applies later to the rafters.

7.10 Screw on the remaining stop brackets (5 ×) at the calculated spacing.

8.1 Set the props to the correct height.

8.2 Lay the gutter on the props.

Caution: Lift and lay down in pairs only.

8.3 Align the gutter level.

8.4 Insert the first side beam: slide the square-cut corner into the gutter and the mitre into the wall profile.

8.5 Insert the second side beam in the same way.

8.6 Fix the side beams under the wall profile with 2 screws each.

8.7 Fix the side beams to the gutter with 2 screws each.

8.8 Check squareness: the two diagonals A and B must be equal in length.

Caution: Very important: only a square frame can be roofed cleanly later.

9.1 Determine the post positions: with a roof depth of 300 cm, the post centre is at 294.5 cm (5.5 cm less).

9.2 Mark the post brackets (U-profile), pre-drill holes and screw them down on the patio.

Caution: Screws for the floor are not in the kit.

Tip: If the posts stand in soil: dig holes instead.

9.3 Determine the length of the posts. Take the slope into account.

9.4 Saw both posts to the determined length.

10.1 Choose the post for the water outlet. Drill the hole with the 76 mm hole saw.

10.2 Saw the drain pipe to length: 20 mm shorter than the post at the top.

10.3 Slide the PVC bend into the drilled hole and turn it inwards.

10.4 Insert the drain pipe into the post and connect it to the bend.

10.5 Carefully lift the gutter a little and let the leaf guard sink into the drain pipe.

Caution: Work in pairs. Lift the gutter only slightly.

10.6 Slide the posts over the U-profiles: first post 1, then post 2.

10.7 Fasten each post to the gutter with 2 screws: first the first, then the second.

10.8 Align the posts with the spirit level.

Caution: Check vertical and level.

10.9 Pre-drill 4 holes per post (3.5 mm) and fix them to the U-profile with 2 screws per side.

11.1 Insert the first intermediate beam between gutter and wall profile and screw it like the side beams.

11.2 Repeat the same until all intermediate rafters are in place.

11.3 Measure the gaps between the beams and cut the trims to size with the saw.

11.4 Push the trims onto the wall profile.

11.5 Screw the trim to the underside of the wall profile.

Tip: Optionally, the same can be done for the gutter profile.

12.1 Lay the first module: with two people, only with gloves, ladder set up firmly.

Caution: Never carry glass alone. One module weighs 72.5 kg (295 cm) or 104.2 kg (345 cm). Mind your safety.

12.2 Fix the corner strip centrally on a side beam with Torx screws 19 × 32 mm.

12.3 Lay the second module.

Caution: Again with two people and with gloves.

12.4 Place the round strip on the intermediate rafter and fasten it with the same screws.

12.5 Work from one side to the other: lay module after module until all bays are covered.

12.6 Place the remaining round strips on the intermediate rafters and screw them down.

12.7 Screw the second corner strip onto the other side rafter.

13.1 Plug the plug and socket of the modules together. It is a simple plug-in system.

Caution: Never disconnect the plug connection under load.

13.2 Use the PV solar cable in the length roof width plus 1 m. The 1 m cable extends the open end.

13.3 The connection to the house installation is made by a licensed electrician.

Caution: Electrical installations only by licensed installers. Otherwise the warranty is void.

14.1 Slide the wall rubber into the wall profile.

14.2 Fix the wall caps to the side of the wall profile with 2 screws each.

14.3 Drive in the last screw of the gutter on both sides.

14.4 Done. Clean every six months and the roof will last longer. The modules are easy to clean from above and below.